n terms of driving," says Pierre Maurage, from Saumon cossais Label Rouge as he enters Rungis in the early hours. This is not the Paris of Camus or Hemingway; it is one of big business as lorries from across Europe rush around with their deliveries. Arriving at the fish section, the Pavillon de la Mare, the single box is dwarfed by thousands of others in a hall bigger than the SECC. The Reynaud fish company where the box Adidas Gazelle Og Trainers sits takes 20 tonnes of Label Rouge Scottish salmon each week, selling it to 1,000 Paris restaurants, along with a wealth of other seafood. Near the box are octopuses from the Pacific, sardines from the Mediterranean, crab from the French Atlantic and whole tuna from the Ivory Coast. "If we had more Label Rouge Scottish salmon we would sell more," says David Lefranc, of Reynaud before the box from South Shian is sold. The price was kept between seller and buyer but the average for Label Rouge Scottish salmon is around E7/kg. Buyer Valrie Ferri is happy with it: "It is a very, very good product Label Rouge Scottish salmon has very good colour and very good texture. Scotland is seen as a country with the highest standards.
at Norwegian fish, preferring Scottish, but only if it has acquired Label Rouge status: "For professionals, it is much better to work with, the Scottish salmon. I have never had a customer return any to the kitchen. " Linay says there are many ways to serve the salmon. On this day it is being cut into fillets, part cooked so the middle remains raw, and served as a starter with Adidas Originals Gazelle Indoor Trainers Green
Sipping a glass of Pouilly Vinzelles, he says Adidas Gazelle Mint
a carrot pure. As a main course he panfries a salmon steak and places it with a pastry disc topped with pureed aubergine, artichoke, mangetout and tomato. As businessmen, couples and the well to do of Paris take up tables in the restaurant, Pierre Maurage from Label Rouge is happy as he watches the salmon, which was swimming in the Sound of Mull earlier in the week, being ordered and eaten.
"As dawn breaks Ferri makes her way around Paris, dropping off fish to her clients, including the Brasserie La Lorraine, near the Arc de Triomphe. Here head chef Christian Linay gets to work on the South Shian salmon in time for lunch. He turns his nose up Adidas Gazelle Og W Light Maroon Solar Yellow
Saumon cossais Label Rouge is a niche market with only 7,000 tonnes a year being sold. But the demand is such that if more was produced the success enjoyed so far can only grow. He says the taste is key. This is where the fish farm has to get it right, making sure the feed has the right balance of fish and oils to ensure firm flesh and a low fat content. Pierre adds: "If any animal is well fed and free to swim, or run, then automatically the quality is going to be good. (With salmon) it means you will have a subtle taste in your mouth. "Off the west coast of Scotland, the terns have returned for the summer, eagerly performing their dance as they hover above the water searching for small fish. Beyond them captain Hans Erik Hesthol is steering the well boat Ronja Skye to a fish farm, about to begin the cycle from sea to pl.
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